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SOUTH EAST
ASIA - Sep 2010
Part 2 -
CAMBODIA - Kampot, Kep & Sihanoukville
An uneventful 1� hour flight from Singapore Changi Airport to Phnom Penh
International Airport saw us being waved nonchalantly through the Khmer customs
and walking out of the terminal to a horde of Khmer taxi drivers desperate for
fares. I spotted a vertically challenged Khmer dude holding a huge sign with
our names on it and figured he must have been sent by Deej to pick us up. We
got into the Camry taxi and headed out of the airport, destination: Kampot.
Just as well I don�t have a weak heart otherwise I could have easily collapsed
from the shock of sitting in the taxi as our driver nonchalantly weaved his way
against oncoming traffic amidst vigorous tooting of horns from various modes of
transport coming from all directions! Finally we got on to the right side of
the road but my huge sigh of relief was short-lived as I watched the chaotic
but strangely organized driving etiquette of the Khmer road users continued on
all the way to
Kampot.
During the two-and-a-half hours� �interesting� drive, I experienced a culture
shock like you wouldn�t believe - it was as I imagined what Singapore would
have been like in the 1940s� We
passed a village a little out of Phnom Penh and I was amazed to see both sides
of the main road lined with countless bakeries. We drove through many road
works in various stages of progress along the National Highway No. 3, passing
countless paddy fields on both sides with waterways teeming with water
convolvulus, water-lilies and hyacinths. Little lopsided stalls by the
road-side sell young coconuts, dried cuttlefish, baguettes and unusual looking
local snacks that would have attracted the interest of �Bizarre Foods�
presenter, Andrew Zimmern. Gigantic ceramic pots which serve as water �tanks�
are transported in lots of three or four, precariously placed on a narrow open
trailer hooked up by a tow-bar to the back of a motor-bike, nonchalantly ridden
by sun-baked scrawny-looking Khmer men. We
drove past wee little towns bustling with morning shoppers doing their daily
marketing, buying meat from roadside butchers who randomly hacked away at the
carcasses hanging from hooks under the blazing sun, generously coated with
plumes of dust from nearby roadworks and in the presence of the ever-friendly
flies. Local modes of transportation consist of Hi-Ace type vans with
passengers very tightly packed like sardines inside with a minimum of two
passengers hanging on out the back and about half a dozen sitting on top�
Another mode of transport is the motor-remorque (long open trailers with bench
seats attached to a motorbike) � the passengers sit patiently and wait until
the driver is satisfied that his trailer is completely packed with no room to
move before he starts his engine. I think the operators work on a ratio of 10
drops of fuel per passenger� The slightly better-off folks will spend a bit
more to travel in the Camry taxis with a minimum of 4 passengers in the back
and at least 3 in the front with the driver. Finally, there�s the tuk-tuk -
small 125cc motor-bikes with a carriage-style roofed trailer attached, designed
to carry 4 to 6 passengers. These tuk-tuks are very popular with the tourists.
We
finally arrived at the RikiTikiTavi Guesthouse in Kampot. Cost of taxi service
was US$40. We were shown to our room by a sweet petite Khmer young lady named
Rumdoul (after the fragrant national flower of Cambodia) who manages the
guesthouse during the Expatriate owners� absence. Upon learning that we are
Deej's parents, she decided to play a little prank on us by telling us that
there was someone (not Deej) waiting to see us in the restaurant upstairs.
While wondering who it could be, we hastily changed into shorts and T-shirts
before heading upstairs to meet this �someone�. It turned out to be Deej and
Gen after all! We were then introduced to the rest of the staff before sitting
down to a late breakfast.
After that, Deej drove us in his Toyota Camry (nicknamed �Cameron�) to his home
by the river for a tour of the compound before we went for a little drive.
Failing to find the rambutans I wanted (out of season), Deej drove on to Utopia
Guesthouse overlooking the Kampot River for our first taste of the local fare
(Prawns in garlic and Lok Lak Chicken). From there it was off to the market to
get some fresh tropical fruit before heading back to Rikitiki for the happy
hour (2 for 1) session. Gen and I then wandered 2 doors down for an hour-long
massage (legs, head, shoulders and back) for a mere US$6 each. Dinner was
enjoyed at Wunderbah (US$19, for the four of us, inclusive of wine and fresh
fruit juice). We parted company after dinner and looked forward to a
sightseeing session with a river boat cruise booked for 3pm.
Today's sightseeing started off with a tuk-tuk drive with Deej to check out
Elephant Cave (Phnom Chhnork cave). It started out as a fairly tame ride down
the main street of Kampot, continuing on the major highway until we reached the
turn-off to the cave. That was when Dina�s (our tuk-tuk driver) expertise came
to the fore � he expertly maneuvered his tuk-tuk along the unpaved dirt road
full of huge potholes without incident. In between clutching the hand rail of
the tuk-tuk to prevent myself from being tossed out, I
managed to click my camera a couple of times, err� a few dozen times, to
capture scenes of paddy fields and quaint attap farm houses with pigs,
chickens, buffalos and the odd dog or two. We cheerily reciprocated with �sues
dei� (Khmer for �hello� pronounced 'sue-saw-day' ) when the local kids raced
out of their homes to cheerily yell out, �Hello!� at the top of their voices.
We finally arrived at the bottom of the hillside where Elephant Cave is. About
half a dozen local kids had followed us on their pushbikes a few metres before
our destination and all eagerly volunteered to be our guides. One kid offered
to keep an eye on the tuk-tuk, a couple decided to just hang around while the
remaining three decided that they will be our guides, come hell or high water.
It
was stinking hot but we soldiered on following the walking track to the base of
the hill to where wild monkeys were cavorting happily among the branches. We
paid US$1 each to the keeper of the cave and proceeded to climb up 103 steps to
Elephant Cave. After my puffing and wheezing had eased slightly, I snapped a
few, err.... several photos before we made our way back down the hill� We got
back to Kampot in time for lunch before our date with Bart the Boatman who took
us on a fantastic 3 hours� cruise which included a swimming stop and a most
interesting ride through nipa palm-lined waterways. We got back just after
sunset as the swallows flew home to their nests under the old bridge.
Back to Rikitiki for happy hour drinks before the guys head off down the road
for a couple of beers while Gen and I once again made a beeline for the massage
parlour before joining our men for dinner of Sunday roast lamb - NZ lamb
roasted in Kampot! We parted company after dinner - it was back to Rikitiki for
the MOTH and me for a refreshing shower before settling in to watch a
documentary entitled �Cambodia/Kampuchea� by James Gerrand.
After breakfast and a quick trip to the jeweller's stall in the market to get a
couple of jewellery items hand-made, we convened at Deej & Gen's to be
introduced to their landlord (Chinn) and his wife, Ung. Upon learning that I
like young coconuts, Chinn immediately got Dina to climb up one of his coconut
trees to cut off a whole bunch of young coconuts for me to enjoy. Within
minutes, I was drinking the best tasting young coconut ever! After Dina�s
departure, I headed into the kitchen to show Synat how to cook fried bee hoon
with water convolvulus and sliced chicken. We must have been ravenous as the
wokful of noodles was consumed within minutes.
After lunch, Gen drove the MOTH and me back to Rikitiki for the MOTH to watch
motor-racing on cable TV while I went walkabout in search of a beauty salon for
a facial.
I
had no trouble finding the beauty salon and after an impromptu impersonation of
Marcel Marceau, I managed to get my message across. I enjoyed a most relaxing
hour-long facial treatment for US$5 before making my way back to Rikitiki. Deej
and Gen arrived soon after to take us to Traeuy Kaoh Wat on Fish Isle. A monk,
obviously keen to practice his English with us, proceeded to tell us his life
story and also about Buddhism� There we stood in the middle of the wat and man,
was he well and truly wound up! Finally, we managed to leave without appearing
rude and we headed off to Bodhi Villa for afternoon drinks and dinner before we
were dropped off back at Rikitiki.
Today it was off to a pepper plantation at Phnom Voar. We left the plantation
with a bag of black peppercorns and went on to Kampong Trach Cave and Kiriseila
Pagoda, near a gemstone cave which unfortunately is not easily accessible. As
soon as our car pulled up at the cave checkpoint where we paid US$1 a head
entrance fee, a gazillion kids appeared from out of nowhere to be our guides
and despite our refusal, the persistent little tykes jumped on their pushbikes
and followed us all the way to the cave. It was a rather irritating experience
trying to take photos of Buddha statues and cave formations while little heads
kept popping up at random intervals. We very quickly lost interest and left
shortly afterwards to Deej & Gen's for lunch of yummy Fish Amok (a
semi-spicy coconut milk based fish dish containing garlic, onions, turmeric,
lemon grass with a mild hint of chillies) cooked by Synat, the housemaid.
After lunch, Gen opted for a siesta while Deej accompanied the MOTH and me to
the market where our eyes and noses barely stood up to the challenge of the
heat-ripened odours of rotting fish guts, prawn shells, various dried seafood,
seaweeds, etc� I purchased a few sapodillas before we left the market scene
behind us and headed back to Rikitiki for a refreshing shower before
refreshments while waiting for Gen to join us for dinner. Tomorrow we will head
for Kep where the MOTH and I will be staying for a couple of days before
returning to Kampot to celebrate Deej�s birthday.
As soon as breakfast was over, I wandered down the side street and after
another Marcel Marceau miming routine, I sat down for a manicure and pedicure
which took care of two hours of the morning for the princely sum of US$1!
Back to Rikitiki I
raced to join the MOTH and it wasn�t long before Deej and Gen arrived to take
us to
Kep for a couple of nights� stay at the Veranda Natural Resort
where we had booked accommodation at 'The Residence' suite. Deej drove us in
Cameron into Kep but our suite at the Veranda wasn�t ready, so we left our bags
at the reception and headed down to the waterfront restaurant called Kimly for
a hearty lunch of pepper crabs freshly taken from one of the many crab baskets
that were floating gently to and fro in the ebbing tide and other equally
delicious seafood. From there we had a brief drive around Kep before checking
in at the Veranda. Deej and Gen drove back to Kampot to await the arrival of my
Singaporean niece, Aisyah and a couple of their mates who were coming from
Battambang.
'The
Residence' suite was awesome! It was HUGE with every creature comfort catered
for! After admiring the views from our private terrace, we went downstairs to
check out the amenities - a large swimming pool, a restaurant serving food in a
huge dining veranda with WiFi access, a fully stocked bar, a bakery and an ice
creamery! Back upstairs for a siesta before booking a tuk-tuk for a sightseeing
tour of the area. A polite Khmer guy named Soph@t showed up after a bit of a
wait and he suggested a little tour which included catching the sunset before
bringing us back to the Veranda for the princely sum of US$8. The tour was
worth every cent, especially the final stop at a seaside park to see the statue
of King Khorn with a beautiful sunset as a backdrop. We gave him US$2 tip and
he was so happy that he gave us his contact number, should we need his services
again.
We then chilled out in the restaurant/bar area where the MOTH enjoyed his
couple of beers while I sipped my Margarita. A mutual decision was made to have
our dinner there before retiring for the night and as we were both feeling
rather peckish, we ordered a plateful of French fries served with aioli (garlic
mayo) while waiting for our main meal of seafood pizza. Well, our pizzas
arrived soon after and they were super huge! There was no way either of us
would be able to finish them so we arranged for the second pizza to be sent up
to our suite for a midnight snack. Tomorrow, Deej and Co. will meet up with us
at the jetty for a long-tail boat trip to Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island).
After a scrumptious
complimentary buffet breakfast, we went back upstairs for a morning siesta
until 11.30am when a phone call to Soph@t soon got us to the Rabbit Island long
boat jetty to meet up with the rest of the "gang" for our boat ride to Koh
Tonsay (Rabbit Island). We had to take two boats (US$20 return trip per boat)
and a slightly bumpy boat ride later saw us enjoying a refreshing swim after
placing our lunch order at the beach restaurant on the island. After a yummy
seafood lunch, we decided to call it a day as it looked like a storm was
brewing and the boatmen were starting to get a tad twitchy.
An unfortunate incident when attempting to get into the long boat saw me taking
an impromtu swim before a quick 'rescue' effort by my MOTH. From the jetty, we
headed back to the Veranda where the young 'uns enjoyed a few drinks by the
poolside while I showered and changed. After pre-dinner drinks, our belly worms
began to growl for something more substantial, so off we set in two vehicles to
get to Kimly by the sea for our lavish seafood dinner. Dinner over, we parted
company with the young 'uns who returned to Kampot.
The next morning, after breakfast, the MOTH checked his phone to see a cute
message from Soph@t wishing us well and a return message of thanks together
with a request for a trip back to Kampot soon had him appearing at The Veranda.
Our bags were loaded into the tuk-tuk and off we went. He stopped to show us
where he lives - in a wee little house on a fairly large block of land which
belongs to a widowed friend who couldn�t manage the fruit plantation so, in
return for a rent-free house, Soph@t and his wife would pick the fruit and sell
them in the nearby market with profits going to their widowed friend. He
explained that his two kids (6yo boy and 5yo girl) were on their own in the
house as his wife was in the market selling fruit. I had earlier packed up the
uneaten seafood pizza so I offered it to Soph@t, who delightedly accepted it.
We had a great tuk-tuk trip back to Kampot with Soph@t ever obligingly stopping
whenever asked, so we could take photos of the local scenery. Feeling extra
generous, we doubled the usual US$10 fare and in return, we were heaped with
Buddha�s blessings�. After arrival at Rikitiki, we met up with Aisyah upstairs
while she was enjoying a late breakfast. To kill some time, we went for a
leisurely walk to the market with Aisyah. I don�t think Aisyah was too
impressed with the stench of the market, especially in seafood section so we
didn't linger for too long� The MOTH and I bought a couple of Oxford
Khmer/English dictionaries at a little book-store (which I nicknamed
"Officeworks") outside the market as a present to Rumdoul, who is studying for
a degree in business management in the tourism industry and goes around with a
tattered dictionary which she constantly refers to like a bible. Needless to
say, Ramdoul was speechless with delight...
Dark clouds were gathering fast as we waited impatiently for Deej to arrive to
take us to his house for lunch, after which, we went to the gazebo by the river
at the back of the house and before we could blink, their landlady came racing
out with her granddaughter with 4 rolled up mats for us to sit on while we took
in the river views. Her husband soon appeared and insisted that we should try
some summer rolls (fresh shrimp rolls) and dumplings with the special dipping
chilli fish sauce from a passing vendor. Delicious! Afterwards, Gen stayed back
for a little siesta while Deej took us for a walk on the old disused railway
bridge where we spent 20 minutes waiting for the Cham Khmer (Muslim Khmer)
fishermen to go out in their boats after their late afternoon prayers. We then
continued walking to Rikitiki while perspiring like hogs in the very humid
condition left by the downpour earlier.
After a quick shower and change of clothes, we got into Dina�s tuk-tuk to get
to Bodhi Villa. We enjoyed a fine dining experience with thin sliced potato
chips, vegies sticks with a hummus dip and super yummy beef spring rolls. This
was quickly followed by a chicken curry and a beef curry served with rice and
hot crusty bagettes. Drinks all around and after presents were opened and the 3
birthday cakes cut, (rainbow cake from Dina, chocolate cake and a cheesecake
from Gen), the band started playing. The joint was soon rocking but we oldies
decided to call it a night at about 11pm. Dina brought us back to Rikitiki
before heading back to Bodhi Villa to give more rides to those who have had
enough. For us old farts, sleep beckoned�
Aisyah and I went for a full body massage at the Khmer Lady Massage (US$6 each)
after a quick trip to the market to pick up my jewellery. Back to Rikitiki to
learn from a phone call that birthday boy Deej had stayed up till 3am at Bodhi
Villa drinking shots from all his mates after Gen left for home at midnight!
Nursing a massive hangover, Deej only got out of bed 4 times...to throw up! Gen
arrived at Rikitiki to farewell Aisyah who left by taxi for a night in Phnom
Penh to catch an early flight back to Singapore tomorrow morning. The MOTH and
I spent the afternoon with Gen at the rapids at Prek Thnout Community Based
Ecotourism reserve (US$3pp entry fee and 75cts for parking). There were quite a
few people there who had come to indulge in fully-clothed swimming sessions in
the rapids before socialising happily in the picnic huts along the stream.
That done, we returned to their place and hung around the gazebo and again
watched the Cham Khmer (Muslim Khmer) fishermen to go out in their boats right
on 5pm, while waiting to see if Deej felt well enough to have dinner with us.
Unfortunately, he was still feeling a bit under the weather so he missed out on
a delicious dinner with us at Blissful, an ex-pat backpacker-type restaurant
that Gen took us to. Tomorrow, we will check out of Rikitiki to go to
Sihanoukville with Deej and Gen to spend the day and a night
there before they take us to Phnom Penh for an early morning flight to
Singapore on the 21st.
Soon after our arrival in Sihanoukville, we checked into the Beach Club Resort
in Tola St (US$25 [off peak rate, buffet breakfast @ US$4pp]). After s short
power nap, we joined Deej and Gen by the poolside and a bit later, the four of
us sauntered down to Ochheuteal Beach. [The name Ochheuteal Beach comes from
the name of the small river at the southern end of the beach. In Khmer,
Chheuteal is a type of tree. The creek is called O-Chheuteal and the beach is
named after the creek.] We decided to have our afternoon drinks at Kaya Shack,
one of many, many beachfront restaurant shacks desperate for business in the
off-peak tourist season. One drink led to another as we waved away about 200
masseurs, bling vendors, youths selling sunglasses, maidens selling fresh
fruit, fried mantra shrimps, cooked sand crabs, various Khmer hawker foods and
beggars galore. What a relaxing experience it was to lie back on the beach
chair and sip on a Mai Tai while getting a leg massage and pumice treatment on
my feet (US$8)...
We continued our happy hour drinking until sunset and as if on cue, our bellies
began to rumble for a re-fuel so we paid for our drinks (US$21) with the
intention of checking out another restaurant shack. Feeling a bit on the lazy
side, it didn't take much for us to be convinced to stay and dine there
instead. We sat down to a candlelit dinner of a seafood platter for 2 (US$12)
and a whole barbecued fish for Deej and Gen to share (US$6). With our full
bellies, we walked leisurely back to our rooms at the Beach Club Resort and
re-grouped 10 mins later to walk to the night market near the Golden Lions
Traffic Circle. Not at all what I was expecting - visions of souvenir shopping
very quickly disappeared as we set eyes on some bizarre foods on offer - deep
fried crickets, bbqed snakes, fried grubs, crispy fried frogs, bbqed chicken
wing tips, chicken feet, snails and so on - the kind of bizarre foods that
would have Andrew Zimmen licking his chops! Photo session over, we made our way
back to the Beach Club Resort. We called it a night and will meet at 8.30 in
the morning for breakfast.
Thought we'd lash out and have breakfast at the elite Independence Hotel..Got
there and checked out the buffet spread at US$12 but opted out when we found
out that 70% of the food there had some form of pork product. So back in the
car to head off to Sakal Bungalows at Independence Beach for a Western
breakfast (total cost was US$15.25]. On the way back to Beach Club Resort, Deej
stopped at a section of the road that had a roadside stall selling water,
bananas and peanuts so tourists like us can buy food to feed the many monkeys
there. We gladly parted with 4000 riels (US1) for a small bunch of bananas and
a small packet of shelled peanuts to hand-feed our furry friends. Came back to
check out of the Beach Club Resort to get on our way to Phnom Penh. We stopped
for late lunch at a modern restaurant 'Yi Sang-Ppsez', not far from the city.
Total cost was US$26 with a complimentary mini moon-cake each.
We drove through the city in peak hour traffic and I was very, very impressed
by Deej's driving skills in Cambodian traffic - I just hope he does not bring
it home to Australia. We finally found our way to the Feeling Home Guesthouse,
checked in and reconvened half an hour later for a spot of shopping at the
Shopping Center Sorya Ltd. Deej felt like Vietnamese Pho (Beef Noodle Soup) so
we jumped into a tuk tuk but Deej lost his sense of direction and we got off in
the wrong street. Oops! Not to worry, the night was still young so we walked
right around the block, nervously following Deej and Gen as they casually cross
the busy streets almost as well as the locals. Wouldn't you know it, when we
got there, the establishment was shut for renovations. Well, no choice but to
walk for another block to find another restaurant that has Pho on its menu.
Aha! Found it! High fives all around as we eagerly entered. We chuckled over
the dishes on offer in the extensive menu - a few penis dishes and funny
misspelt English translation of local dishes. After a complimentary dessert of
banana with sago in coconut milk, we had a leisurely stroll back to our
guesthouse. Tonight's dinner cost US$16.80. We said our goodbyes as we will be
leaving early tomorrow morning and declined Deej's offer to drive us to the
airport. Arranged for a wake-up call for 7am and for a taxi to take us to
airport at 7.30am (US$10 fare).
We thanked our lucky stars we decided against taking a tuk-tuk to the airport
as we would probably have arrived at the airport a lot greyer! The morning peak
hour traffic was horrendous to put it mildly - motorbikes, bicycles, tuk-tuk,
taxis, motor cars, pick up trucks, vans and vendors pushing or pulling their
food carts went in every which way in the most disorganized manner I have ever
seen. Motorists drove with one hand on the steering wheel and the other
permanently fixed on the horn! FINALLY, we were able to breathe a sigh of
relief as we turned into the Phnom Penh International Airport...
The last three days of our holiday were spent with my family in Singapore,
eating, shopping, more eating, more shopping and yet more eating... What a
fantastic three weeks' holiday - one we'll reminisce about while we sit in our
rocking chairs in our future years.
OzLadyM
Border: BoogieJack
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OzLadyM
Please do not use any material on this website without my permission. Thank
you.
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